Gin and Horseradish Cured Salmon

As chaotic and high speed life that we as chefs live, there is ironically something gratifying about watching food develop over time.

In a profession where one expects everything done now, fast and damned anyone that gets in my way, we somehow manage to sit back quietly to admire a process that takes months to complete, and at times after all that waiting the product may even be unusable.

The craft of curing and aging protein and vegetables alike has been around for thousands of years. You begin to gather a sense of accomplishment, a feeling of ‘look at what I have created’, patiently waiting as salt and humidity magically preserve as time would on a well kept bottle of vino. Curing does the same thing a hot flame would - the process of searing, locking in the flavor and preserving. The difference being that it is a much longer practice but in turn stabilizes food for much longer then simply cooking it.

This is how it works: salt drains protein of water (moisture) therefore slowing down the growth of harmful bacteria.

Ingenious process in an era when your refrigerator was winter. Astonishingly delicious however when curing is not what may or may not keep you alive till the spring.

I deeply enjoy putting in time and effort into curing, whether it is fish, meat, or preserving fruits and vegetables. It’s a craft that demands respect, demands understanding and above all patience, a virtue that I am not too familiar with 12 hours each day. The rules are simple yet they must be followed thoroughly, and frankly if they’re not or you decide to skip a step somewhere along the way just remember you may kill someone with your E. coli spiked salami.

Invest in a jar of pink curing salt (fairly inexpensive and available on-line) cheese cloth, some strong kitchen twine, lots of kosher salt and whatever other flavorings you’re absolutely mad about. Raw protein is an excellent vessel for flavor so remember to use herbs and spices wisely, but most importantly have fun with it.

For ideas, recipes and guidance on everything about curing I strongly recommend Charcuterie: The Craft of Salting, Smoking and Curing, by Michael Ruhlman and Brian Polcyn, I keep a copy above my butcher block at all times.

Horseradish and Gin Cured Salmon

6 oz brown sugar (dark or light, depending on preference)
6 oz kosher salt
2 – 3 pound fresh salmon with skin removed
¼ c gin
¾ c horseradish, freshly grated

In a bowl mix sugar, salt, horseradish and gin into a well incorporated paste. Place the skinless salmon in a pan that is just large enough to hold it. When curing meat most instructions will advise not to use a stainless steel pan to minimize chemical reaction. However, because curing fish takes days and not months using a stainless steel pan is quite fine. Rub the paste on both sides of the salmon making sure there is an even coating throughout.

Place another pan on top of the salmon to weigh it down- this will speed up the process by helping the salt extract moisture from the fish. Place some sort of weight on to the top pan, typically I use sealed bags of rock salt, or plates work just fine. Place the entire set up into refrigerator and allow it to do its thing for 48 hours. When the 48 hours are up, check the salmon for softness, if it still feels soft and squishy give it another day. Once the salmon is firm, it has finished curing.

Remove it from the pan and rinse it well under cold water. It is best to use it right away or if properly wrapped it will last for a week or two in the refrigerator. If you do not plan to use it right away, remember that the longer you wait, the milder the gin and horseradish will become.

I simply slice it and serve it with good crusty bread and cracked pepper vinaigrette. But you may treat as you would smoked salmon, perhaps on a bagel with some good champagne for brunch.

Enjoy.

Nero di Seppia

This has by far been the hardest Item to get hold of so far on Hunt2Table.

Squid Ink is one of those things that although it may not look appetizing at all, once you taste it you realize it’s one of the most delectable delicacies you have ever enjoyed. The highest quality of which comes from the Mediterranean Sea, because of the water’s rich complexity.

Yes, it looks like crude oil in a jar but there’s a little more to this stuff than meets the eye. The ink’s delicate nature during harvest is what makes it incredibly hard to find, unless you know where to look.

I tried a couple of different stores and what I found did not even come close to comparing to the stuff I remember from my childhood. My father would go to the local fish market on holidays and buy the freshest whole squid he could find. I remember watching, barely able to look onto the counter without standing on a stool, as he gently pulled out the squid’s guts and with the precision of a neurosurgeon carefully sniped out the ink sacks without breaking them open. The dark, tar like substance smelling rich of salt from the sea that was squeezed out of those tiny sacks holds some of my dearest memories of summer from my younger years in Sicily.

The hunt was full of disappointment as I ventured from place to place in search of the ink. I found canned squid in “ink sauce”, a pathetic combination of sodium, food coloring and fish stock. I came across ink that although looked promising with all the content written in Portuguese, the back label stated in proud bold letters “made in china” – no thank you!

Even specialty markets did not seem to have any leads on where to find the stuff.

Realizing the impossibility of finding a local source for the ingredient, without going through a restaurant food purveyor, I decided to order it online. Let me tell you this stuff does not come cheap. A 500gram jar (just over 17 ounces), with shipping cashes in at about 70 dollars, but it’ll last you for a very, very long time due to its potency.

I guess the lesson here is that if you do ever come across it stop being such a mindless and pretentious numnut when it comes to food and try it. If it wasn’t good or edible they wouldn’t charge so damn much for it.

This is one of my favorite recipes using squid ink. If you ever get your hands on some I hope that you’ll enjoy making it as much as I do.

Enoy~

Risotto al Nero di Seppia

2 tablespoon extra virgin olive oil
½ teaspoon crushed red pepper flakes (or 1 fresh red chili)
1 tablespoon chopped shallot
1 teaspoon fresh chopped garlic
3 oz squid, cleaned and sliced (preferably fresh)
1 10oz can tomato filets
½ cup tomato sauce
1/8 teaspoon squid ink
2 cups cooked Aborrio rice (which is nice and creamy, but not too thick - because you followed cooking instructions, RIGHT?)
Salt and pepper to taste

Heat the olive oil in a small heavy bottomed pot, allowing it to get really hot without reaching smoke point. Add the red pepper flakes and shallots, stirring with a wooden spoon as to not let them stick. Once the shallots begin to sweat and become a bit translucent add the garlic and the squid. Allow the flavors to mingle for about 3 to 4 minutes on medium heat, add the tomato filet along with the tomato sauce and bring to a simmer. Add the squid ink, and being careful not to splash any out your pot (as it will stain), gently fold the sauce till the ink is fully incorporated. Taste and season with salt and pepper, it is important not to salt your sauce before you add the squid ink as it packs a good bit of salt. Once you have seasoned your sauce, fold in your aborrio and allow it to rest for a few minutes.

Everything Is Better with Bacon... Everything

Bacon Ice Cream with Saffron Cream

I know, not exactly what you call a light and healthy summer treat. But its ice cream by god! And no summer should ever be endured without it. And as for the bacon part, I have absolutely no shame in saying that pork needs love too…

For this recipe you must have an ice cream maker. One of those cheap ones will do, just make sure to use crushed ice so that it doesn’t jam up on you.

Enjoy!~

Saffron Cream

Pinch of saffron
1 Cup whipping cream
¼ Cup confectioner’s sugar

Steep the saffron in about ¼ cup hot water and allow it to cool to room temp. Pour the whipping cream in a bowl along with the sugar and whip till you begin to leave streaks with your whisk. Pour in the saffron tea, enough to give the cream a yellow tint, and keep whisking till it looks like whipped cream.

Bacon Ice Cream

2 Cup Milk (skim… are you happy?)
1 ¾ Cup Sugar
½ teaspoon Salt
2 Cup Half and Half
1 tablespoon Vanilla Extract
4 Cup Whipping Cream
1 Cup Bacon Bits (freshly made, not that silicon flavored crap from the bottle. And if you want to use turkey bacon, that’s fine… just don’t tell me about it!)

This is the part where you read first and then make the stuff, listen carefully. Scald milk, not scorch, scald – that’s when there are tiny bubbles that form on the edge of the pot. At this point remove from heat, add the sugar and salt stirring to dissolve the sugar. Stir in the half and half along with the vanilla extract and the cream. Bring the mixture to as low of a temperature as possible without freezing it, about 45 minutes to an hour in the freezer will do. Remove from freezer and pour into the ice cream canister of your machine. When the mixture begins to resemble ice cream that has been left on the counter too long, pour in the bacon bits and finish churning.

When complete, top off with a dollop of saffron cream and a sprinkle more of bacon bits… if you have any left over.

You should definitely follow your ice cream maker direction in using it. But as a general guide, close the canister before beginning to layer the ice and salt around it. I start with the ice (about a 3 inch layer), pour in the salt (a few hand full), more ice and finish the layering with more salt.

Pepper Jelly

I have entered a never ending love affair with anything that can be layered, spread or sandwiched onto a bagel. So when a friend suggested that I should go pick some fresh bell peppers from his garden there was no way I could resist adventuring into one of my favorite bagel condiments – pepper jelly.

There’s a favorite quote of mine by food journalist Marilyn Kaytor that says “condiments are like old friends- highly thought of, but often taken for granted.” I try to live by this and as product take great care and focus to do each ingredient justice.

I have never made the stuff before and to be honest I was unsure of how the final product would turn out. I did a little research on a couple of recipes and once I discovered exactly how to make it I scrapped all that knowledge and did it my way. Hopefully you will do the same with this recipe, learn it, maybe even test it out and once you get the hang of it put your own spin on it.

Enjoy~

Pepper Jelly

4 Bell Peppers …any color but green or your jelly is going to look like mash peas!
3 Good Size Jalapenos
½ Cup Apple Cider Vinegar
½ Cup Sugar
½ Cup Water
2 Small Red Apples … or 1 really big one.
1 16oz Jar of Apple Jelly … jelly, not marmalade. You want the stuff without the chunks.
Salt to Taste
Cayenne Pepper to Taste

Slice all your peppers in half and remove the seeds and stems. Cut them into smaller manageable pieces and place in a food processor. Please use gloves when it comes to the jalapenos, and wash your hands before you touch yourself especially guys… I do not want to have to say I told you so.

Core your apple(s) and do the same. Process everything to a smooth puree, using a bit of water if you need to help out. Move the puree into a heavy bottomed pot along with the sugar, vinegar and water, bring to a boil and simmer for 10 minutes, stirring occasionally to dissolve the sugar.

Add the apple jelly and stir till it is all incorporated into mixture. Bring to a boil and simmer for another 5 minutes. Remove from heat. Place a touch of the, what is now (hopefully), pepper jelly on a plate and place it in the freezer for a few minutes to chill. Once it’s cold examine it to see if it is at your desired viscosity, if not turn the heat back on and keep cooking till you get there.

Assuming you’re happy with how jelly your jelly is, add salt to taste and if you desire it to be spicier, add cayenne as well. Place in a jar with a lid and refrigerate. It should last about 2 weeks, or more if you’re feeling adventurous.

Wonderful Nasty Bits

When I first began writing this issue of Hunt2Table a week and half ago there were two things I wanted to stress the importance of: a close relationship with one’s butcher, and the role of offal on our table.

What exactly is offal? It is what as chefs we are very careful of keeping secret. We guard it as best we can and try not to let you know just how good it all can be. Think: foie gras, monk fish livers, skate wings, sweet breads... as soon as you (the customer) begins to crave it the price shoots through the roof and we are no longer capable of keeping it in house.

I’m talking about all the wonderful nasty bits, the entrails, organs, and outer extremities that most of us turn up our nose at. We tend to shy away from offal as food, while in other cultures it has become delicacy, as it once was here too part of standard American fare.

In every profession kitchen this is what is sought of after as treasure; treasure which although absolutely inexpensive we take great pleasure in charging you a week’s wages for what would otherwise be processed, canned and fed to your pet poodle.

But what if I told you that you did not have to pay what we charge for it. There is an easier way to obtain these little packages of joy and happiness… become friends with your butcher!

I know, he can be a rather frightening character at times. Covered in blood, holding a clever, perhaps sporting a lazy eye, with the look of a somewhat deranged man out to kill anything fluffy and cuddly. But the truth of it is that butchers are just pissed off.

No, not at you!

At the big companies who have turned their art and passion into a mindless assembly line operation where at some point someone inserts a needle into your meat and pumps it full of chemicals so that it may look fresh and appetizing till the next ice age.

The few who have been able to hang on to their nearly extinct profession are looking for you; a sensible and adventurous seeker of what is still good about meat. At first he might be a bit defensive, slightly arrogant but if you insist upon demanding the good stuff he will respect you and who knows you might even get a little smile out of him.Think of the butcher as your friendly neighborhood bartender. He’ll remember your name, he’ll memorize what you like, and when something good comes along he will stash it away just for you.

Back to the offal thing: God knows I love the stuff, and in my opinion no beast is the greatest provider of it than the noble pig. The belly, hocks, hears, snout, tongue, liver, heart, cheek, and by far my favorite - the tail.

Enjoy! –

Pork Tails Confit

Dry cure per # of pork

4 c pork fat
4 cloves garlic
1 shallot
6 sprigs thyme
3 tbsp salt
2 bay leaves
Gentle alcohol to cover (optional)
Pepper to taste

Grind all dry cure ingredients, and toss pork to cover evenly. Place in a non reactive container (plastic will do) and submerge with gentle alcohol such as vermouth. Store for 24-36 hrs. Rinse and pat dry. Cover in fat, and place in 225 degree oven for approximately 3 to 4 hours. Store covered in the same fat for up to 2 months.

Pork Tails Rilletes

Confit pork tails
Pork fat
Whole grain mustard
Radishes
Kosher salt
Good crusty bread

Take your confit pork tails and debone them. Place all meat in food processor and pulse to an almost smooth mixture, adding a bit of pork fat from the confit if needed. Spread on good crusty bread with a touch of mustard. Slice up the radishes and sprinkle a bit of salt on them as an accompaniment.

The Incredible, Sometimes Edible Star Fruit

I did not realize what I was getting myself into with this one. I might have been better off failing miserably at acquiring this week’s ingredient. It all makes perfect since now, no wonder that once they are in season these things come in through the store’s loading dock but never seem to make their way out the front door.

Obviously a tropical fruit, star fruits are grown in North America only in Florida, Hawaii and Puerto Rico. The ones from Florida are primarily the ones found in stores and in my opinion fully responsible for giving this fruit a bad reputation. Florida should stick to oranges and retirement communities.

I should have given up and scrapped the idea, but the quest for the fruit turned into a serious determination to find something about star fruits worth writing about. Once I actually found one, and I do mean just one (from Puerto Rico), that would be considered edible I was impressed.

Known as the Carambola in most parts of the world, the star fruit originates from Sri Lanka and Malaysia. With their crop season lasting only from late summer to early winter, star fruits are classified into two categories- tart and sweet. The tart ones are identified by their narrowly formatted ribs and the sweet variety has fleshy, thicker ribs. I found my selected fruit to hold quite a unique flavor combination of part pineapple with the fullness of a plum and a hint of citrus, making it in its complexity a very well balanced fruit.

So, will I return for more? Will I make a trip to the store with the sole purpose of buying a star fruit? Probably not. Considering I had to buy 7 to find a descent one there is more likely chance that I would sincerely write about tofu. But truth be told I enjoyed my one star fruit. Perhaps one day a better selection will make their way to our store shelves, I honestly believe it has potential for growth in our ever expending appetite.

Just don’t tell Florida, they might up production!


Star Fruit Sangria

1 bottle White Wine (Pinot Gris or Sauvignon Blanc)
2 cups Ginger Ale
2 Ripe Star Fruits
1/3 cup Sugar
Few Sprigs Basil

Great thing about this recipe is that not only is it light and refreshing for hot summer days but it gets better with time. Juice one star fruit, slice the other as you would for orange rounds. In a pitcher combine wine, sugar, basil and star fruit juice. Stir to dissolve sugar, add sliced star fruit and ginger ale. Finish off with ice.

Grilled Star Fruit with Balsamic Mascarpone

1 Ripe Star Fruit
½ cup Sugar
¾ cup Water
¼ cup Butter
3 tablespoon Balsamic Vinegar
1 cup Mascarpone Cheese

In a small saucepan combine water and half the sugar. Chop half the star fruit into cubes and simmer in sugar water till tender, about 10 minutes. Transfer to the bowl of a food processor, puree and set aside.
In a stand mixer, or food processor bowl (given that you have cleaned it after using it for your star fruit puree!) combine the mascarpone and balsamic vinegar. Blend on high speed till completely incorporated.
Combine melted butter with remaining sugar. Slice the other half of star fruit into ¼ - ½ inch slices and place on the grill, basting them with the sugar butter mixture. Once you have grilled the star fruit on both sides, transfer to plate and serve with a healthy dollop of balsamic mascarpone, finish with a drizzle of the pureed star fruit.

Red Thai Chilies ~ Phrik Khii Nuu

This past week I had a huge crush on Red Thai Chilies.

I refused to settle for the dried pathetic looking vacuum sealed peppers found on some forgotten shelf somewhere between the Asian and Hispanic section.
I wanted fresh, vibrantly red chilies, stems still attached and smelling of a sweet water and dirt cocktail.

To be honest I really did not think it was going to happen. After about 5 days of searching it seemed like I would have to settle for green instead of the valuable red chili.
The color of these peppers is merely an indication of their ripeness. The green being the ones picked immaturely and the red being the ripest of all. Varying from green directly to red, for this strand of chili their heat is proportionate to the color, the pale green having almost no heat at all.

Their correct name is the Bird’s Eye Chili or Phrik Khii Nuu, literally translating to “mouse shit chili”. I can see why we settled for Thai Chili.

After striking out at every farmer’s market and fresh produce provider in town I decided to follow a friend’s tip. A local Thai restaurant in the area was pleased to help me in my search and surprised that I didn’t settle for the dried peppers.

I was greeted with smiles upon learning of my quest for the red peppers, almost as if to say “thank you for not being a dumbass and for knowing what’s good.”

So let it be a lesson that when looking for something considered ethnic or exotic, go straight to the experts. They’ll understand your frustration, and if approached correctly they’ll see it as a point of honor to lend a hand.

Recipes:

Vodka Chili Paste

½ lb Red Thai Chilies
2tbsp Rice Vinegar
3/4 c Good Vodka
1/4 c Fresh Peeled Garlic
Salt to taste

Rinse and remove stems from chilies. Place in a food processor along with the garlic and turn on medium speed. Add the rice vinegar and slowly add the vodka until you reach desired consistency (drink the rest, you’ll need it after you taste this.) Add salt to taste. Allow for the paste to marinate for at least a day. The Vodka makes the heat from the chili last twice as long, so use with caution.



Cinnamon Picked Chilies

1/2 lb Red Thai Chilies
2 c Rice Vinegar
2 tbsp Kosher Salt
½ tsp Peppercorn
2 sticks Cinnamon

Gently force stem less chilies into sterile jar. In non-reactive pot place rice vinegar, salt, peppercorns and cinnamon sticks. Bring to a boil stirring to dissolve salt. (I strongly recommend not sticking your nose in the pot, you’ll wish you hadn’t… Don’t make me say I told you so!)
Remove cinnamon sticks from liquid and place in the jar along side chilies. Cover the jar with the hot liquid (all may not fit), tighten lid and refrigerate for at least 7 days before using.

Red Chili Panna Cotta

1 Tbsp Unflavored Red Chili Paste or to taste
2 c Half and Half
1 c Heavy Cream
½ c Sugar
1 Vanilla Bean
2 tsp Unflavored Gelatin

Place handful of chilies in food processor and turn on medium speed. Add a few touches of water till you create a paste like substance and set aside. Dissolve gelatin into ¼ c half and half.
Scrape the vanilla bean into a pot along with the rest of ingredients and the chili paste. Stir mixture and taste for desired spiciness. Heat till sugar is dissolved, allow to cool. Add the gelatin mixture and incorporate well. Divide into serving dishes and refrigerate till firm.