Everything Is Better with Bacon... Everything

Bacon Ice Cream with Saffron Cream

I know, not exactly what you call a light and healthy summer treat. But its ice cream by god! And no summer should ever be endured without it. And as for the bacon part, I have absolutely no shame in saying that pork needs love too…

For this recipe you must have an ice cream maker. One of those cheap ones will do, just make sure to use crushed ice so that it doesn’t jam up on you.

Enjoy!~

Saffron Cream

Pinch of saffron
1 Cup whipping cream
¼ Cup confectioner’s sugar

Steep the saffron in about ¼ cup hot water and allow it to cool to room temp. Pour the whipping cream in a bowl along with the sugar and whip till you begin to leave streaks with your whisk. Pour in the saffron tea, enough to give the cream a yellow tint, and keep whisking till it looks like whipped cream.

Bacon Ice Cream

2 Cup Milk (skim… are you happy?)
1 ¾ Cup Sugar
½ teaspoon Salt
2 Cup Half and Half
1 tablespoon Vanilla Extract
4 Cup Whipping Cream
1 Cup Bacon Bits (freshly made, not that silicon flavored crap from the bottle. And if you want to use turkey bacon, that’s fine… just don’t tell me about it!)

This is the part where you read first and then make the stuff, listen carefully. Scald milk, not scorch, scald – that’s when there are tiny bubbles that form on the edge of the pot. At this point remove from heat, add the sugar and salt stirring to dissolve the sugar. Stir in the half and half along with the vanilla extract and the cream. Bring the mixture to as low of a temperature as possible without freezing it, about 45 minutes to an hour in the freezer will do. Remove from freezer and pour into the ice cream canister of your machine. When the mixture begins to resemble ice cream that has been left on the counter too long, pour in the bacon bits and finish churning.

When complete, top off with a dollop of saffron cream and a sprinkle more of bacon bits… if you have any left over.

You should definitely follow your ice cream maker direction in using it. But as a general guide, close the canister before beginning to layer the ice and salt around it. I start with the ice (about a 3 inch layer), pour in the salt (a few hand full), more ice and finish the layering with more salt.

Wonderful Nasty Bits

When I first began writing this issue of Hunt2Table a week and half ago there were two things I wanted to stress the importance of: a close relationship with one’s butcher, and the role of offal on our table.

What exactly is offal? It is what as chefs we are very careful of keeping secret. We guard it as best we can and try not to let you know just how good it all can be. Think: foie gras, monk fish livers, skate wings, sweet breads... as soon as you (the customer) begins to crave it the price shoots through the roof and we are no longer capable of keeping it in house.

I’m talking about all the wonderful nasty bits, the entrails, organs, and outer extremities that most of us turn up our nose at. We tend to shy away from offal as food, while in other cultures it has become delicacy, as it once was here too part of standard American fare.

In every profession kitchen this is what is sought of after as treasure; treasure which although absolutely inexpensive we take great pleasure in charging you a week’s wages for what would otherwise be processed, canned and fed to your pet poodle.

But what if I told you that you did not have to pay what we charge for it. There is an easier way to obtain these little packages of joy and happiness… become friends with your butcher!

I know, he can be a rather frightening character at times. Covered in blood, holding a clever, perhaps sporting a lazy eye, with the look of a somewhat deranged man out to kill anything fluffy and cuddly. But the truth of it is that butchers are just pissed off.

No, not at you!

At the big companies who have turned their art and passion into a mindless assembly line operation where at some point someone inserts a needle into your meat and pumps it full of chemicals so that it may look fresh and appetizing till the next ice age.

The few who have been able to hang on to their nearly extinct profession are looking for you; a sensible and adventurous seeker of what is still good about meat. At first he might be a bit defensive, slightly arrogant but if you insist upon demanding the good stuff he will respect you and who knows you might even get a little smile out of him.Think of the butcher as your friendly neighborhood bartender. He’ll remember your name, he’ll memorize what you like, and when something good comes along he will stash it away just for you.

Back to the offal thing: God knows I love the stuff, and in my opinion no beast is the greatest provider of it than the noble pig. The belly, hocks, hears, snout, tongue, liver, heart, cheek, and by far my favorite - the tail.

Enjoy! –

Pork Tails Confit

Dry cure per # of pork

4 c pork fat
4 cloves garlic
1 shallot
6 sprigs thyme
3 tbsp salt
2 bay leaves
Gentle alcohol to cover (optional)
Pepper to taste

Grind all dry cure ingredients, and toss pork to cover evenly. Place in a non reactive container (plastic will do) and submerge with gentle alcohol such as vermouth. Store for 24-36 hrs. Rinse and pat dry. Cover in fat, and place in 225 degree oven for approximately 3 to 4 hours. Store covered in the same fat for up to 2 months.

Pork Tails Rilletes

Confit pork tails
Pork fat
Whole grain mustard
Radishes
Kosher salt
Good crusty bread

Take your confit pork tails and debone them. Place all meat in food processor and pulse to an almost smooth mixture, adding a bit of pork fat from the confit if needed. Spread on good crusty bread with a touch of mustard. Slice up the radishes and sprinkle a bit of salt on them as an accompaniment.