Gin and Horseradish Cured Salmon

As chaotic and high speed life that we as chefs live, there is ironically something gratifying about watching food develop over time.

In a profession where one expects everything done now, fast and damned anyone that gets in my way, we somehow manage to sit back quietly to admire a process that takes months to complete, and at times after all that waiting the product may even be unusable.

The craft of curing and aging protein and vegetables alike has been around for thousands of years. You begin to gather a sense of accomplishment, a feeling of ‘look at what I have created’, patiently waiting as salt and humidity magically preserve as time would on a well kept bottle of vino. Curing does the same thing a hot flame would - the process of searing, locking in the flavor and preserving. The difference being that it is a much longer practice but in turn stabilizes food for much longer then simply cooking it.

This is how it works: salt drains protein of water (moisture) therefore slowing down the growth of harmful bacteria.

Ingenious process in an era when your refrigerator was winter. Astonishingly delicious however when curing is not what may or may not keep you alive till the spring.

I deeply enjoy putting in time and effort into curing, whether it is fish, meat, or preserving fruits and vegetables. It’s a craft that demands respect, demands understanding and above all patience, a virtue that I am not too familiar with 12 hours each day. The rules are simple yet they must be followed thoroughly, and frankly if they’re not or you decide to skip a step somewhere along the way just remember you may kill someone with your E. coli spiked salami.

Invest in a jar of pink curing salt (fairly inexpensive and available on-line) cheese cloth, some strong kitchen twine, lots of kosher salt and whatever other flavorings you’re absolutely mad about. Raw protein is an excellent vessel for flavor so remember to use herbs and spices wisely, but most importantly have fun with it.

For ideas, recipes and guidance on everything about curing I strongly recommend Charcuterie: The Craft of Salting, Smoking and Curing, by Michael Ruhlman and Brian Polcyn, I keep a copy above my butcher block at all times.

Horseradish and Gin Cured Salmon

6 oz brown sugar (dark or light, depending on preference)
6 oz kosher salt
2 – 3 pound fresh salmon with skin removed
¼ c gin
¾ c horseradish, freshly grated

In a bowl mix sugar, salt, horseradish and gin into a well incorporated paste. Place the skinless salmon in a pan that is just large enough to hold it. When curing meat most instructions will advise not to use a stainless steel pan to minimize chemical reaction. However, because curing fish takes days and not months using a stainless steel pan is quite fine. Rub the paste on both sides of the salmon making sure there is an even coating throughout.

Place another pan on top of the salmon to weigh it down- this will speed up the process by helping the salt extract moisture from the fish. Place some sort of weight on to the top pan, typically I use sealed bags of rock salt, or plates work just fine. Place the entire set up into refrigerator and allow it to do its thing for 48 hours. When the 48 hours are up, check the salmon for softness, if it still feels soft and squishy give it another day. Once the salmon is firm, it has finished curing.

Remove it from the pan and rinse it well under cold water. It is best to use it right away or if properly wrapped it will last for a week or two in the refrigerator. If you do not plan to use it right away, remember that the longer you wait, the milder the gin and horseradish will become.

I simply slice it and serve it with good crusty bread and cracked pepper vinaigrette. But you may treat as you would smoked salmon, perhaps on a bagel with some good champagne for brunch.

Enjoy.