Wonderful Nasty Bits

When I first began writing this issue of Hunt2Table a week and half ago there were two things I wanted to stress the importance of: a close relationship with one’s butcher, and the role of offal on our table.

What exactly is offal? It is what as chefs we are very careful of keeping secret. We guard it as best we can and try not to let you know just how good it all can be. Think: foie gras, monk fish livers, skate wings, sweet breads... as soon as you (the customer) begins to crave it the price shoots through the roof and we are no longer capable of keeping it in house.

I’m talking about all the wonderful nasty bits, the entrails, organs, and outer extremities that most of us turn up our nose at. We tend to shy away from offal as food, while in other cultures it has become delicacy, as it once was here too part of standard American fare.

In every profession kitchen this is what is sought of after as treasure; treasure which although absolutely inexpensive we take great pleasure in charging you a week’s wages for what would otherwise be processed, canned and fed to your pet poodle.

But what if I told you that you did not have to pay what we charge for it. There is an easier way to obtain these little packages of joy and happiness… become friends with your butcher!

I know, he can be a rather frightening character at times. Covered in blood, holding a clever, perhaps sporting a lazy eye, with the look of a somewhat deranged man out to kill anything fluffy and cuddly. But the truth of it is that butchers are just pissed off.

No, not at you!

At the big companies who have turned their art and passion into a mindless assembly line operation where at some point someone inserts a needle into your meat and pumps it full of chemicals so that it may look fresh and appetizing till the next ice age.

The few who have been able to hang on to their nearly extinct profession are looking for you; a sensible and adventurous seeker of what is still good about meat. At first he might be a bit defensive, slightly arrogant but if you insist upon demanding the good stuff he will respect you and who knows you might even get a little smile out of him.Think of the butcher as your friendly neighborhood bartender. He’ll remember your name, he’ll memorize what you like, and when something good comes along he will stash it away just for you.

Back to the offal thing: God knows I love the stuff, and in my opinion no beast is the greatest provider of it than the noble pig. The belly, hocks, hears, snout, tongue, liver, heart, cheek, and by far my favorite - the tail.

Enjoy! –

Pork Tails Confit

Dry cure per # of pork

4 c pork fat
4 cloves garlic
1 shallot
6 sprigs thyme
3 tbsp salt
2 bay leaves
Gentle alcohol to cover (optional)
Pepper to taste

Grind all dry cure ingredients, and toss pork to cover evenly. Place in a non reactive container (plastic will do) and submerge with gentle alcohol such as vermouth. Store for 24-36 hrs. Rinse and pat dry. Cover in fat, and place in 225 degree oven for approximately 3 to 4 hours. Store covered in the same fat for up to 2 months.

Pork Tails Rilletes

Confit pork tails
Pork fat
Whole grain mustard
Radishes
Kosher salt
Good crusty bread

Take your confit pork tails and debone them. Place all meat in food processor and pulse to an almost smooth mixture, adding a bit of pork fat from the confit if needed. Spread on good crusty bread with a touch of mustard. Slice up the radishes and sprinkle a bit of salt on them as an accompaniment.